WATANI International
8 February 2009
Photos by Rimon Nash’at
As the Nile Valley in Upper Egypt widens at spots and narrows at others, the verdant, neatly spread fields that boast all shades of green ultimately give way to the arid desert. The eastern bank of the Nile in the region of Mallawi in Minya, Upper Egypt, some 280km south of Cairo, is among the widest stretches of the valley and accommodates some of the busiest towns and villages in the region. Yet, twice a year, residents leave behind their lush terrain, cross over to the village of Deir Abu-Hinnis in the much narrower western bank, and march some two kilometres westwards into the desert to a hilly spot they call Kom Maria, literally Maria’s heap, to hold an exceptional celebration.
Holy Family here
Some two millenia ago Kom Maria hosted the Holy Family—Mary, Joseph and the child Jesus—for one day during their journey through the land of Egypt as they escaped Herod the King. Herod, fearing that the child would grow and take his throne to become the prophetic King of the Jews, had wished to kill Him. The gospel of St Matthew says that the angel of the Lord appeared to Joseph in a dream and told him to: “Arise, take the young child and His mother and flee into Egypt, and be thou there till I bring thee word.” And so it was that the Holy Family entered Egypt and sojourned in various locations throughout its land for some three years, according to tradition.
Twice a year, a grand celebration is held at Kom Maria to mark the Holy Family’s one-day sojourn there. The first is in January when the Coptic Church commemorates the killing of all the children under two years old in Bethlehem, when King Herod thought that by doing so he would surely rid himself of the Child who had been born to become a king. The second is in July to commemorate the entry of the Holy Family into Egypt. Even though the Coptic Church celebrates this event on 24th of the Coptic month of Bashans (1 June) every year, Anba Dimetrious decided to postpone the Kom Maria ceremony until a later date when most children would be on school holiday.
Felluca procession
One early morning last January saw Anba Demetrious, Bishop of Mallawi and Ashmonin, board the Nile boat Ra on the western bank of the Nile and head eastwards. Accompanying him were Bishop of Minya Anba Makarius, Bishop of Deir Mawwas Anba Aghabious, and Bishop of Maadi Anba Danial. Minya governor General Ahmed Diaa’ Eddin, US ambassador to Cairo Margaret Scoby, former Minya governors General Hassan Hemeida and General Fouad Serag Eddin, as well as local politicians and prominent Copts including the first woman mayor in Upper Egypt, the Copt Eva Habeel Kyrillos, joined in. Priests and deacons in their traditional white robes and red sashes also joined, chanting typical Coptic praises of joy.
The Ra sailed the Nile, emulating the same trip taken by the Holy Family so long ago. Following was a procession of ferry boats and fellucas, their sails decorated with stunningly beautiful paintings of the Holy Family in Egypt, and carrying loads of people eager to join in the celebration.
Everybody disembarked on the eastern bank where they were welcomed by a procession of children in boy scout and girl guide uniforms, leading them to the site of the celebration at a spot called Karma on the way to Kom Maria. Joyous hymns and praises were sung all the way. The villagers of Deir Abu-Hinnis gave them a warm welcome as they passed through, crowding the streets and balconies to cheer and ululate.
Upper Egyptian Santa
Once at the site the national anthem was played to a background scene of the three pyramids before which stood a small child holding the hands of both a priest and a sheikh. A Pharaonic scene of the Pharaoh Akhenaten and his Queen Nefertiti—who made their capital in present-day Tell al-Amarna in Minya—was acted, as was a play of the Holy Family’s entry into Egypt. A sketch featuring Santa Clause in Egypt was performed by Deir Abu-Hinnis children and had everyone in stitches, especially as Santa moved about conversing in Saidi (Upper Egyptian dialect) then blew a whistle that brought out scores of children on bikes dressed as little Santas greeting everyone in typical Saidi.
Official peace
As the celebration came to an end, Anba Demetrious led his guests on a 45-minute walk to Kom Maria. He began his word by borrowing from the words of the Psalm 133. “How good and how pleasant it is for brethren to gather together in love,” he said. He thanked Minya governor for letting them use the Ra on its maiden voyage to celebrate at Kom Maria. He reminded the governor, however, that the bishopric had, some eight years ago, purchased five feddans—the bishopric had actually applied to buy 50 feddans but was only allowed to buy five—of the surrounding land and asked for licence to build guest facilities there, but was never granted licence. Anba Demetrious thus asked anew for that licence and was joined in his appeal by Ashraf Usheiri, MP for Mallawi.
When it was General Diaa’ Eddin’s turn to give a word, however, he simply disregarded the appeal and went on to deliver the usual courtesies and slogans on the exemplary social peace which prevails in Egypt.
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