Is it the destiny of my generation to confine ourselves to memories of the good old days, so that we do not despair whenever we see the beauty and majesty of a cherished edifice of our past lost to so called ‘development’? But even if we accept to detach ourselves from current reality, and isolate ourselves in memory lane, a voice inside us persists in crying: why should our children and grandchildren be deprived of the original beauty and fragrance of their history?
Today, 20 August 2023, Watani carries a feature story titled “Montazah Palace.. an architectural gem embracing Alexandria’s seashore”. We print this story to commemorate 130 years on the building of the Palace. The Watani story documents some of the most remarkable achievements that took place at Montazah Palace, leaving it with a long-standing legacy that blends history with architecture and natural beauty. The story also cites opinions that testify to the undermining of that legacy at the hands of the current so-called development of Montazah Palace.
As I am used to, let me begin with the positive aspect of the story: the great history of Montazah Palace.
Some time in the 1890s, Egypt’s ruler from 1892 – 1914, Khedive Abbas Helmy II (1874 – 1944) was strolling over a stretch of beach in Alexandria when an area of enthralling beauty east of the city caught his eye. He decided to build there a summer place for himself; he named it “Montazah”, literal for promenade. The area, located on a plateau 16 metres above sea level, was endowed with unmatched natural beauty, including a depression where herds of deer used to roam, and a garden lush with trees and plants.
Khedive Abbas Helmy II himself oversaw construction of the palace in 1892. The unique architectural style of Montazah Palace, the design and setup of its vast gardens dotted with charming statues, made for a breathtaking scene. His successors to Egypt’s throne made equally remarkable additions to the Palace and its gardens.
The gardens surrounding the Palace stretched over 350 feddans [one feddan is 4,200 square metres]: 80 feddans of orchards, 45 feddans of flower gardens, and 125 feddans of forest trees. They also included a honey apiary, a dairy farm, dog pens, and an aviary.
The Khedive had commissioned Greek-born architect Dimitri Fabricius Pasha, who at the time served as court engineer and Director of Khedivial Palaces, to build the Salamlek Palace on Montazah grounds, a place in which he received and met visitors. He then built a music booth, famously known as the “Music Kiosk”, in the middle of the gardens where bands used to play in Khedival summer concerts.
In 1928, King Fuad I (1868 – 1936) ordered the construction of al-Haramlek Palace to house members of the royal family in summer. Al-Haramlek is a Turkish word that denotes a place allocated for women, to preserve their privacy and dignity. Al-Haramlek was designed by Italian architect Ernesto Verruci in an alluring mix of Florentine and Turkish architecture. During his time, King Fuad I also ordered the construction of a 3000-sq.m. Royal Greenhouse which includes a collection of rare tropical plants.
When he ascended the throne in 1936, King Farouk (1920 – 1965), added the Clock Tower and the Tea Kiosk overlooking the Mediterranean. He also constructed the bridge that connects the beach with the island of the lighthouse which guided ships and yachts into Montazah bay where the Royal Yacht al-Mahroussa was docked.
In 1952, King Farouk was forced to abdicate the throne to his infant son and, in 1953 Egypt became a republic. Montazah Palace and gardens have since been opened to the public.
Through the years, Egyptians have especially enjoyed Montazah beaches, which were named after Aida, Cleopatra, Venicia, and Semiramis, in addition to the private beach of the 1964 Palestine Hotel. This was built in Montazah by the Egyptian government to host the second Arab summit in September 1964. Recently, a project was launched to develop Montazah. But what a “development”! Let me give you an idea through two messages I received; I include them here without any editing or embellishment.
The first message reads:
“Yesterday I went to Montazah Bay after the announcement that it is now open following completion of the development works. Entry fees at the outer gate is EGP25 per person, car entry is compulsory, parking fees for another EGP50. If you want to head to the beach, you should queue (a very long queue) to take a golf cart; once it’s your turn you pay EGP20 per person. Oh, I forgot to mention that the development works have added three huge car park buildings which have occupied one third of the area of the gardens. These parks have only served to upset visitors and burden them with unnecessary extra charges. Once we mounted the golf cart we expected to stroll through the beautiful Montazah Gardens; but where are these? There are only relics of Montazah’s famous trees, in a dire state of lack of any upkeep or trimming. The place is strewn with construction waste and damaged grass. Under the pretext of making space for the new buildings, we have lost the greenery, openness and harmony of strolling under the trees and canopies. We finally reached the beach where we were greeted by a ‘battallion’ in charge of organising entry; they asked for EGP125 per person for a beach umbrella and beach chairs for the group. The beach is beautiful as is the sea too, especially with the water breaker that was installed, yet the organising team is only good as far as their uniform goes; they lack any proficiency or adequate client treatment. The bathrooms and changing cabins are scarce, overcrowded and lack regular cleaning throughout the day. When the day was over and we wished to head back to our cars, there was absolutely no order and people had to race to take the golf carts. After waiting for 30 minutes for a golf cart, we despaired and decided to head to the car park on foot in spite of the large distance. Finally, all I can say is that the project to develop Montazah Gardens is a failure; the place has lost a great deal of its splendour, charm and historic legacy. A visit has become daunting and costly; an experience we will never repeat.”
The second message: “Montazah is engraved in our memory as a dear, beautiful value that will never leave us. When we talk about it, the heart flutters and the eyes tear over a beautiful time that is now gone. Millions of pounds were spent on the place under the pretext of developing it but unfortunately, the features of history and royalty that should have been preserved for future generations have been lost. Oh Alexandria! What a loss, a great loss! I love you my country, I love your sun, your sea, your sky, and your good decent people. But sadly, you frustrate me with your gush to tarnish the beauty of the past for the sake of some decrepit development.
Watani International
18 August 2023